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1920s Costume
The first world war changed how women were perceived in society, constraints were removed and women experimented with fashion. If questioned about 1920s dress you'd probably mention the flapper or charleston. These became popular between 1926 - 28. A true flapper dress should finish at the knee. Showing the knee was the height of fashion. Because the dress was simplicity in itself, it allowed the lower classes to be able to afford (or make) these fashionable dresses, something that up to this date had been out of the 'normal ' person's reach. Fashionable ladies also wore their hair short and sleek, were not afraid to wear make up and smoked cigarettes with elegant cigarette holders.
Hemlines did go up and down and often dresses used floaty fabrics with a hankerchief or scalloped hems. Waistlines were dropped and by 1929 skirts had gradually got longer with uneven hems and asymmetric skirt hemlines. By 1930 the hemline was several inches below the knee.
Fashionable ladies in the 20s favoured the flat, boyish look and ladies with a bust would try and flatten it. Corsets and girdles constricted the ladies whilst dancing and sales began to decline. It is also during this decade that sheer (nude looking) stockings become fashionable. Up to this time, legs had been covered by thick woollen stockings.
T bar shoes with buckles and bows and straps featured in the 1920s.
1920s Fancy Dress Suggestion
Flapper
Charleston
Bathing Belle
1930s Costume
There was a return to a more genteel, ladylike appearance in the 30s. The feminine figure was encouraged as busts and waistlines were seen. Hairstyles became more softer and pretty with curls and perms were improving. Society was changing, wealthy women, who up to now had maids for the menial tasks now had to do more chores themselves. Day wear was functional.
Evening wear was glamorous. New fabrics were emerging made even more glitzy with sequins and beads. The bias cut allowed fabric to swirl and halterneck and cowl necks also became popular. Ladies copied the glamorous 30s filmstars.
In 1938 knitted hosiery -Nylon (invented by Dr. Wallace Carrothers) became available in 15 denier. Ladies could show of their legs with the knowledge that the nylons would not bag or sag.
1930s Fancy Dress suggestion
Greta Garbo
Dorothy
Wicked Witch of the West
Glinda (Wizard of Oz)
1940s Costume
During the war years, everyone was encouraged to 'make do and mend'. Frivolity was looked down upon and uniforms were seen in all areas. This continued well after the war had ceased in 1945.
Ladies wore boxy jackets or tops with a nipped in waist and a skirt. Trousers begun to be worn for convenience.
UK Rationing started in June 1941 and was very strict. Ladies had to use whatever they could lay their hands on, including parachute silk. Items of fabric went through many a transformation so that nothing went to waste. Knitting was very popular with old socks were unravelled and re-knitted into waistcoats or cardigans.
Nylons were very rare and it was not unknown for a lady to befriend an American GI in the hope of getting a new pair of nylons. However, most women took to staining their legs with make up or gravy. A friend would draw a straight line down the back of their calf to give the impression that they were wearing nylons.
Face make up was in short supply. Munitions workers were encouraged to wear make up as a protective barrier to the grit and chemicals they worked amidst.
Hair, by day was kept clean under a turban or headscarf. Glamorous styles with curls were preferred to the short styles of the twenties.
1940s Fancy Dress suggestion
Bette Davis
Rita Hayworth
Betty Grable
Lauren Bacall
Ingrid Bergman
Vera Lynn
Land Army Girl
ATS
1940s Nurse
Tea Dresses
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1920s Costume
Men's fashion took a youthful turn during the early 1920s. Old-fashioned "hefty-looking, broad-shouldered" suits were soon becoming a thing of the past as men began wearing jackets, which had no padding, leaving a skinnier, more boyish appeal to the people wearing them. This "youthful turn" also caused the fads of college campuses to become the fads of the "real world." Stripped blazers and 'Oxford Bags' became the 'in look'. Bowler hats and straw boaters were popular.
An enormous craze for leather driving jackets was inspired by the world famous aviator, Charles Lindbergh
During the evening, tail coats and pleated white shirts, along with a top hat, were considered appropriate evening wear
1920s Fancy Dress suggestion
1920s gent
Bathing Man
Gangster
1930s Costume
Up until this decade it was the women who shopped for clothing, however this was all going to change. Tailors started to open (like Burtons) and they encouraged the working class men to shop. Shop displays were very masculine and ladies were not encouraged. The men were served by male shop assistants all wearing matching striped suits.
In the early 30s, The general look was still smart and suits the favoured choice of many, inspired by Al Capone and the 'gangster' era. The double breasted suit became very popular and every man wanted a stripped suit.
Men, inspired by Edward VIII wore plus fours.
1930s Fancy Dress suggestion
Dinner Jacket
Gangster
Scarecrow
Tin Man (Wizard of Oz)
1940s Costume
Uniforms were seen in all areas.
The following is taken from the official rationing notice:
Rationing
Of Clothing, Cloth and Footwear
From June, 1941
Rationing has been introduced not to deprive you of your real needs, but to make more certain that you get your share of the country's goods - to get fair shares with everybody else.
When the shops re-open you will be able to buy cloth, clothes, footwear and knitting wool only if you bring your food ration book with you. The shopkeeper will detach the required number of coupons from the unused margarine page. Each margarine coupon counts as one coupon towards the purchase of clothing and footwear. You will have a total of 66 coupons to last you a year; so go sparingly. You can buy where you like and when you like without registering.
Eventually the coupons were reduced to 36 per person in 1945.
Some items such as boiler suits, workmen's bib, brace and overalls, hats and caps were not rationed. Coupons were not required for 2nd hand clothing and a huge industry for used clothing developed.
The government encouraged manufacturers to produce a utility range of clothing. The style of garments produced were also subject to 'austerity' regulations, which restricted how much cloth was used. For example, pockets were restricted, a maximum length for men's shirts was introduced and a ban on turn ups for men's trousers caused much heated debate
The public was surprised to discover that the utilitarian clothing varied in style & colour and was generally hard wearing and good quality.
Uniforms were used for going to special events.
1940s Fancy Dress suggestion
Mickey Rooney
Spencer Tracy
Clark Gable
Gene Autry
Tyrone Power
Humphrey Bogart
Dads Army
Army Uniforms
RAF Uniforms
German Officer Uniforms.
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